Eleven Madison Park, New York (February 2015)

Friends often ask why I visit Eleven Madison Park so frequently. The answer is simple. I’d liken it to a sort of anti-Murphy’s Law. Since 2012, every time I’ve walked through their revolving doors, it’s as if the laws of nature have been suspended, for nothing ever seems to go wrong. You get the sense that the staff have considered every aspect of the dining experience to maximize the guest’s pleasure.

And this most recent visit (with The Wizard of Roz and her husband) was no exception. While I cannot possibly do justice to our 5+ hour lunch, I wanted to highlight some of my favorite dishes.

From my past meals, I’ve found higher variance in lobster preparations relative to either vegetables or meats; they can be utterly spellbinding one meal (see here) and almost forgettable at another (see here). The winter menu’s butter poached lobster was accompanied by braised lettuce and mushrooms. Still glistening from its lipid bath, the claw and tail meat were finished tableside with a potent shellfish sauce—made from crushed pieces of lobster shell, coral, cream and cognac—which draped itself around anything it touched.

And the final savory course was delightful. It had been nearly three years since I enjoyed pork as my main course (a belly and loin duo). The wintery duo featured cheek and collar. Perched atop a head cheese-like oval of pork that resembled a stain glass window, the cheek was braised into submission. Bringing balance to the plate was a diaphanous slice of pickled onion and just barely perceptible apple. It’s a combination of flavors I could eat again and again (indeed, I did, enjoying the pork at the bar the previous evening).

Here’s the link to all of the photos: EMP winter menu

Emily pouring coral over lobster shells

Emily pouring coral over lobster shells

IMG_2774 IMG_2775 IMG_2783

Advertisements

2 thoughts on “Eleven Madison Park, New York (February 2015)

  1. Ha! The lobster dish you found “spellbinding” I hated. And we had it more than once. My previous favorite lobster dish is this one which dates way back to 2009. I do agree with you that the current Lobster Newberg is superb.

    • I can see the charred elements on that lobster dish proving to be divisive.

      Your previous favorite lobster preparation looks fantastic but also more in line with an entree NoMad might serve, for under the current tasting menu format at EMP, I couldn’t imagine them serving an entire lobster tail.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s