Eleven Madison Park, New York (November 2012)

The first word that comes to mind is an adjective: incredible. The second is an intensifier: really.

This was my fifth meal at EMP this year, and before each visit I thought inly, they can’t possibly improve, can they? Well, my November lunch proved to be the most spellbinding yet. The experience can best be described as a hedonistic treadmill, marked by card tricks, carrot tartares and appropriately overflowing amounts of alcohol. Courses quickly become positive-sum games of eenie-meenie-minie-mo as your fork attempts to itemize the indulgences (note: many of those indulgences come in the form of vegetables). And when it ends, one can’t help but sit back awestruck.

Dining experience: nonpareil

Highlights: carrot tartare, potato and the parsnip

(My June review)

New charger sans menu

Champagne and grapefruit-based cocktail

Savory black and white cookie: apple and cheddar

Long Island oyster glazed with wood sorrel and buckwheat

Heirloom cranberry snow, beets, goat cheese and caraway

Sea urchin custard with baby squid, bay scallop and green apple

Smoked sturgeon sabayon with chive oil

An homage to Jewish appetizing: applewood smoked sturgeon, house-made pickles, rye crisps, an everything bagel salad with quail eggs and pickled onions and ostetra caviar

Colony cocktail

Salsify roasted with bulgur wheat, hazelnuts and Mangalitsa ham

Carrot tartare with traditional condiments

Potato baked with bonito cream, shallot and pike roe

140-day dry aged ribeye

Parsnip roasted with sesame, lime, parsley and dijon


Beef broth infused with rosemary

140-day dry aged ribeye with chanterelle mushrooms, amaranth and dandelion greens

Braised oxtail, foie gras and potato mousseline

An homage to a Central Park picnic

Egg cream

Poached pear with honey and acorn

Sheep’s milk cheesecake, fennel and concord grape ice cream

Sleight of hand

Chemex coffee

Hazelnut chocolate

Sweet black and white cookie

Dark chocolate covered pretzel with sea salt

Apple brandy (just the right amount for one person)



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