Empellon Cocina, New York (August 2012)

I’m strapped for time, so I’m afraid there won’t be a full write-up. Here’s the Cliff’s notes version:

Food: very good
My photos of said food: terrible (I use a snap and shoot, folks, and their tenebrous dining room didn’t make my camera’s life especially easy)
Highlights: (1) lobster with Tetilla cheese and tortillas and (2) shrimp with crispy masa and sea urchin mousse
Service: very good (better than I expected, and better than it needs to be)
Pr(return): high

House margarita

 Shrimp with crispy masa, jalapenos, radish, sea urchin mousse, a crumbly cheese and (superfluous) lettuces

 Lobster with melted Tetilla cheese and house-made tortillas

Amaranth ice cream with cherries, amaranth, almonds and ricotta


4 thoughts on “Empellon Cocina, New York (August 2012)

  1. The food looks more well-composed. But given the brouhaha surrounding the significance of Empellon Cocina, I thought the food would be more, well, Mexican…

  2. Nice to get your review of this restaurant as I haven't come across many. I think Topolobampo would be a bit more compelling to me as this doesn't seem as sauce-driven, but the cuisine looks interesting nonetheless. The website doesn't list the price point, so I'm just curious–does Empellon bill itself as fine dining?

  3. Rich, The food looked great and tasted even better. I know embarrassingly little about regional Mexican food, alas, so I honestly cannot assess its degree of Mexican-ness; perhaps I'll need to take a trip to Mexico to give you a more informed answer. 🙂

  4. diningsense,It's kind of you to refer to the above as a review! I wouldn't say Empellon Cocina is charging fine dining prices: if I remember correctly, the shrimp with crispy masa was $19 and the lobster with melted Tetilla was $21 and could easily feed two. To me Empellon came across as friendly and approachable and left me longing for a neighborhood spot like it in Ann Arbor. On Topolobampo, I'm with you–I'd definitely like to visit on my next trip to Chicago.

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