Sixteen months passed since my last meal at Red Medicine, and it was really impressive to see just how much the restaurant has improved. Gone are the insouciant servers, replaced by friendly and professional servers who ably present and finish dishes tableside. As for Jordan Kahn’s food, from the first time I visited Red Medicine in March 2011, it was always my belief that he needed a bigger stage. Now that isn’t to say the every composition is flawless. A frozen uni powder’s nitidity verges on the palate-immobilizing and plantains paired with young turnips have a chalky, charcoal texture. Aside from those minor quibbles, the food remains as spellbinding as ever and would have no problem finding a home on any three-star Michelin restaurant’s menu.
Highlights: sweet corn, chicken dumplings, black carrots and birch ice