Daniel, New York (July 2011)

“A human being,” George Orwell wrote, “is primarily a bag for putting food into.” Perhaps I took Orwell’s quote a bit too seriously with my four-and-a-half hour dinner at Daniel, but it would be the last three-star Michelin meal of my trip. Going into the meal, I had a slender familiarity with Chef Boulud’s food, having eaten at his now shuttered DB Brasserie in Vegas and having watched his thoroughly edifying show After Hours. Slotted as the 11th best restaurant in the world this year, Daniel is often thought to have one of the grandest dining rooms in the country and is talked about as the place where other chefs go to celebrate.

Arriving at the Columbus Circle subway station, I unsurely navigated the one mile walk over to Daniel. Upon entering, I was first met by an older woman who tended the coats; she gave me a once-over, as if I had entered the wrong restaurant due to my lack of sartorial ambition, and when I told her I was here for dinner she pointed me toward the check-in stand where I would without wait be taken to a seat in a corner on the outer perimeter.

I was next met by Julian, an ectomorphic Frenchman, who would be my server for the evening. He began to explain the menu, “there is a three-course, six-course and eight-course tasting.” To which I replied, can we possibly add a few items to hit ten? Julian’s eyes took on a preternatural sparkle and inaugurated what would become a sodality-like interaction. He went to the kitchen and came back telling me the chef was going to do fourteen courses. Having agreed to a Lucullan path, I also opted for a partial wine pairing, which amounted to nine glasses.

With the order placed, out came the amuse. From left to right, there’s a thin slice of smoked salmon with beets, a beet mousse with granny smith apple, a piece of beet cured fluke and finally, closest to the lens–and the first lagniappe–an oceany pungent oyster en gelée with lemongrass.

While I abstained from bread, I acceded to having slices of garlic-parmesan and raisin-walnut placed on my plate both of which went untouched (Julian and Miguel, the primary runner, noticed and omitted bread from the cheese course).

For the first course, the kitchen started off with a duo of terrines: Sauternes-poached foie topped with marcona almonds and a squab with bok choy and five-spiced turnip; I thought one too many textures masked the quadrilateral of squab, but the foie was appropriately creamy.

Next, a nitid chilled corn soup with piquillo pepper, chive oil, mussel broth, sable fish and Iberico ham followed by a fusillade of fish courses: (1) ceviche of tai snapper with celery, North Dakota caviar, radish, a soft pile of sea urchin roe in a cucumber-fennel-celery broth, (2) trio of hamachi, including a confit with sorrel, watercrest coulis and hearts of palm, a tartare with Northern Lights caviar in a lemon-omani tuile and cured in Bergamot with snap peas, (3) red wine braised octopus both in a salad and tempura-fried with feta, cilantro, piquillo oil, capers and almond (all of which boasted beautiful textures), (4) phyllo-crusted Scottish langoustine with yogurt, cucumber spaghetti and lime vinaigrette, (5) King salmon with black olive mosto oil, oregano, sauteed spinach and zucchini involtini filled with squash blossom and tomato marmalade, whose sweetness equilibrated the nicely salted fish and piquant oil.

At that point, nearing my wine threshold, I decided to get up and try to walk off some of the crapulence, realizing I couldn’t continue at the same rate.

When I returned, the fig leaf-wrapped baked black bass with syrah sauce, fennel custard and viscid figs was placed in front of me; it was coup de foudre, inducing wondrous horripilations. This is the best fish dish I’ve eaten to date, tout court.

While not quite as decadent as the rabbit offering at La Folie, this trio–saddle, leg roulade and chop with rabbit jus, carrot puree, grilled porcini, bulgar wheat and cilantro–proved satisfying, and to my surprise, the lean cuts stood up to the untimid dramatis personae.

Transitioning to the heartier meats, out came a trio of veal: sweetbread, cheek and tenderloin with pepper oil and eggplant caponata. Just as I was bracing to introduce my knife to the veal, Chef Boulud appeared out of the corner of my eye and walked up to my table and said, “you’re doing a lot of courses tonight!” We chatted about agricultural policy for a bit before he wished me a bon appetit and allowed me to get back to the triadic indulgence in front of me.

Ending the savory courses with a duo of baby lamb, it was the saporous shoulder meat encased in a parmesan cracker that bested the saddle. The accoutrement included baby asparagus and lamb jus, of course, as well as cous cous coated in asparagus purée. I’m happy to report that this was one of the best pieces of lamb it has ever been my pleasure to eat: intense while remaining tender, deep and with the flavor of an animal that has lived a good–if abridged–life.

The cheese course, which included harder offerings (per my request) from sheep, cow and goat’s milk, was among the best amalgams I’ve experienced. Julian suggested I start at six o’clock and work my way through the plate clockwise; after sampling each, it was the vinegar-washed rind from Hudson Valley that stood out among its peers.

I found the gradual temperature diminution from the warm lamb to room temperature cheese to chilled dessert especially well-planned. For the first dessert, the pastry station started off with a blackberry napoleon and a chilled vacherin alongside stipples of blackberry purée.

And then, for what I thought was the valedictory course: toffee and mascavado ice cream and a frangible cyclinder filled with brown sugar biscuit and Haitian coffee cream. Upon setting down the plate, Julian asked, “do you want a little scotch to make you happy?” No, I told him. Instead, we agreed on coffee as a digestivo.

With my plate clean and my plate being cleared, I asked Julian if it’d be okay to go for one last stroll before mignardises, to which he responded, “pastry has one more dessert for you,” and it turned out to be the most delicious of the bunch: a horchata ice cream, silken rice-based “angel hair pasta,” a puffed rice cluster and an edifice of chocolate and hazelnut.

I was reaching full capacity at this point, but Miguel had other ideas, bringing out well over a dozen warm madeleines, petite fours–a lemon verbena macaron, raspberry pearl tart, chocolate hazelnut cremeux and three others which I was too full to taste–along with coffee, peanut butter, passion fruit, lemon verbena truffles.

 

Despite my best efforts to get him to nosh on some of the sweets with me, Miguel politely declined; in the course of our confab, he commented, “That’s the best meal I’ve ever seen anyone eat here.” I said, “Well, that’s great to hear, but Mike Isabella’s over there, and I’m sure he’ll be eating very well tonight.” Miguel responded assertively, “he won’t be eating as well as you just did.”

Having finished all of the food I was going to, the maître d’ walked me back to the kitchen to meet Executive Chef Jean François Bruel. Immediately after introducing himself and shaking my hand, he asked, “what was your favorite dish?” “The bass,” I said enthusiastically, “it made me question whether I should ever cook fish again.” I continued to heap on the complements as we talked about food for the next fifteen minutes (for whatever reason, I felt far more comfortable among the cooks than I did in the dining room among the beau monde). And we agreed, at extraordinary establishments like Daniel, it’s about trusting the staff and submitting to the kitchen, knowing they will deliver a world-class experience. 

With all of its twists and turns, dinner at Daniel reminds me of the long and winding sentences with which Nabokov seasons the pages of Pnin; at first, one is inspired to write. When one views the corpus of accomplishments in their entirety, the thought soon veers toward, “why bother?”

Advertisements

4 thoughts on “Daniel, New York (July 2011)

  1. I should note that I love bread. In the past, however, when I would do double-digit tasting menus and consume bread, I would simply end up uncomfortably full. So a couple of months ago, I just decided to pass it up, which isn't always easy when a warm loaf is within fingertip's reach.

  2. I thought that might be the case, I've only been mindful of it on two occasions, but if the place is known for it I have to at least taste and try to refrain on the second round.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s