One Market, San Francisco (June 2009)

After picking up my Zipcard near the Montgomery St. BART, I moseyed over to the Ferry Building to salivate over the dry-aging chamber at the Golden Gate Meat Market, before finally arriving at One Market. Upon arrival, alas, I noticed that the screen on my digital camera suffered a traumatic fracture, so if the pictures seem off-center, now you know why.

The canapé arrived in what felt like seconds after I sat down. Fava beans require multiple steps to prepare–shelling, blanching, removing each bean’s individual membrane–adding up to a labor intensive process that I often chose to forgo. If someone else does the aforementioned prerequisites, blitzes the beans in a food processor, and smears the paste on toasted bread with pork fat, I am all for it. Not long after the server removed my canapé plate, another server came by with two kinds of bread–olive and baguette–accompanied by what can only be described as an impenetrable ingot once known as butter. Seriously, I did know whether I would need welding tools to get the butter on the bread. I consoled myself, attempting to deludedly justify the peccadillo with the thought that a meal without butter could possibly be salubrious. Ah, who am I kidding? 

Fava bean purée with house-cured lardo
Not only was the soup’s seasoning spot on, but it was also visually pleasing as the runny yolk elided with the puréed asparagus. 
Asparagus soup, pastured egg sous vide, parmesan, prosciutto
After watching Mario Batali serve opah cheeks on Iron Chef America, I, too, thought fish cheeks would make for a tasty entrée. Do not let the halibut’s eerily unattractive features fool you, for its cheeks are delicate enough to render a knife obsolete. I thought the progression from unsmoked pork belly in the soup to smoked belly meat for the main course was a clever–albeit probably overlooked by most–touch. 
Braised halibut cheeks, micro greens, corn, clams, celery, applewood smoked bacon
This dessert had a great harmony between its tart and sweet notes. 
Nectarine tart, blackberry compote, vanilla bean ice cream

Tonight was my third meal at One Market, and each time I have come away satisfied.


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